Plans for 3 Drawer Chest

Today I'll show you how to build a DIY Nightstand with 3 drawers and have some piece of cake to follow build plans for you!  I was cruising the Restoration Hardware catalog looking for some ideas for my adjacent build, when I ran into the Printmaker'south Series.  The Printmaker's Side Tabular array looked awesome, and then I started working on a version of my own.  I plan to use it in our bedroom equally a nightstand.

I love the shape of this piece, the flush top and sides give it a sleek experience with clean lines.  The nightstand is distressed just enough to give a rustic feel, just has a modern look.

This DIY Nightstand is made with supplies and woods from the home center and has like shooting fish in a barrel joinery.  I used a poplar frame for a little added durability paired with pine panels and drawers.  The Free DIY Nightstand plans are available for this build past clicking here.

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Here is what you'll demand for the project:

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How to Build a DIY Nightstand with Drawers

1. Cut Parts to Size
2. Assemble Sides
3. Attach Back and Front Stretchers
4. Brand the Nightstand Drawers
5. Attach the Drawer Slides
6. Apply Finish and Install Drawers

i. Cut the Parts to Size

Alright, permit'south start building this nightstand! Firstly cut the 1×vi'south and 2×2'southward for the side panels, pinnacle and back.  Make sure all the pieces are consistent in length and width to get tight plumbing fixtures panels without gaps.  Each side console is made of (three) nineteen-7/eight″ ane×6's surrounded by a sixteen-1/ii″ meridian and bottom 2×2 and (2) 26″ ii×ii'southward for the sides.

Gear up one of the side assemblies by drilling pocket holes in the 1×six'south and two×2's.  I utilise a Kreg K4 to drill my pocket holes.  If this jig is out of your cost range, Kreg likewise has lower priced models like the Kreg R3 and the Kreg Mini which give you lot the exact same holes merely just take a little longer to utilise.

2. Gather the Nightstand Sides

Assemble the 1×6 side panels using 1-one/4″ pocket pigsty screws.  Use glue to really go a solid bond.

After joining the 1×6's together, attach the meridian and bottom 2×2's to the panel and and so attach the side 2×two'southward.  I used a combination of the Kreg Face up Clamp and the HART Quicktight C-Clench to clamp together the different sized pieces during assembly.

Next assemble the back of the DIY nightstand, which is exactly like the side assemblies y'all merely made except information technology doesn't have ii×ii'due south on the left and right.

3. Attach the Back and Front Stretchers

Now connect the sides and the back together, clamping the pieces firmly together while assembling.  Use a known correct bending to check for foursquare during assembly.  I likewise used a Right Angle Square with clamps on each side to hold the pieces together while attaching them.

The last major assembly to build and attach is the top.  It uses (3) sixteen-1/2″ ane×vi'due south with only 16-1/2″ ii×2 frame on what volition exist the front of the panel.

At present nosotros'll get a little artistic to attach the top on the DIY nightstand.  Flip it over and clamp everything firmly in place.  Since you tin't effectively clamp the backside of the top, pull those dusty dumbbells or other heavy objects out and use them to hold the superlative down flush to the workbench.

First past screwing the top to the dorsum and and then work your style down both sides and finish with attaching the front 2×two frame.

The final pieces of the three drawer nightstand to adhere are the (3) remaining 16-1/2″ 2×2 forepart stretchers.  Attach the bottom stretcher outset and align it with the bottom ii×2'southward of the sides.

Cut 5-vii/8″ spacers and utilise them to position the 2d and 3rd stretcher to get perfect spacing on the remaining stretchers.  This sized opening will give your 1×6 drawer fronts a 1/16″ reveal on the top and bottom.

4. Brand the Nightstand Drawers

Now that the torso of the DIY nightstand is washed, it'south time to make those 3 drawers.  Earlier you first cutting the drawers, take the measurements of the drawer openings and adjust as necessary, leaving enough room for your drawer slides (one/2″ on each side for me).

Use 1×6's for the draws and cut (6) side pieces at 16″ long and (iii) fronts and (three) backs both at 14″ long.  And so rip the (six) sides and (three) fronts down to iv-1/2″ in width and the (iii) backs down to 4″ in width.

Now cut grooves in the sides and front to accept the bottom console, the dorsum pieces don't go a groove since they volition be ripped smaller subsequently.  The groove should be on the lesser of the inside face up of each board and should be 1/4″ deep, ane/four″ wide, and 1/4″ up from the lesser.

Drill pocket holes in the outside face up of the forepart and the dorsum drawer pieces on both ends.  Flip the pieces so the pinnacle edges are on the workbench and assemble the drawer with i-1/four″ pocket hole screws.  Brand certain the grooves in the sides and front end are all facing in and are aligned where they meet in the corners.  The Kreg Right Bending clench is a lifesaver when building drawers.

When finished y'all take a U-shaped channel made by the grooves and open up on the back.  Cut a bottom panel to size so it will go into the aqueduct and fully overlap the back piece.  Slide the console in and attach it to the back piece of the drawer with 3/4″ screws.

Here is a shot of my drawers all with views of (starting from the bottom) the front end, back, and bottom dorsum.

5. Attach the Drawer Slides

The terminal matter to attach are the drawer slides.  Considering the outside is affluent with the frame, there is a 3/4″ difference between the frame and the inside of the panels.

Cut (6) fifteen-7/8″ cleats from the 1×4 (information technology'south okay they're 1/8″ shorter than the drawer slide since it saves from using another board).  Premount the drawer slides to 1×4 cleats and and so attach the cleats to the inside of the panel.  Using a jig to mountain your slides volition help with consistency.

To mountain the cleats to the nightstand body, predrill 1/4″ holes in the corners of the cleats.  Locate them at the height recommended in your drawer slides instructions.

Now you can mountain the drawer extensions to the drawers using the same jig from before.  You lot'll need to mountain them 3/iv″ back from the front end of the drawer to account for the imitation drawer front and 2×2 frame.  I used a scrap block the same thickness equally the drawer front as a spacer for this.

6. Apply Finish and Install the Nightstand Drawers

Now all that is left is the staining and attaching the drawer fronts to finish up your DIY nightstand.  I went with a Kona stain from Rustoleum.

Install the drawers so you lot can measure and adjust the fronts as necessary.

Cut the false drawer fronts to size and attach them from the dorsum with 1-1/4″ pocket pigsty screws through 5/16″ holes.  This gives you some wiggle room to adjust the drawer front just right for perfect reveals.

Before mounting the drawer pulls, I put 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.  Information technology's a wonderful finish and like shooting fish in a barrel to apply.

Lastly mountain your drawer pulls past drilling through both the drawer box and the false front and using long bolts.

Now y'all've got yourself an awesome DIY Nightstand with drawers for a fraction of the price of buying it at the store.

Head over to my Furniture Projects page if you want more great furniture projects!

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Source: https://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-3-drawer-nightstand/

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